Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

L’Artisan Parfumer Nuit de Tubereuese

Saturday, June 5th, 2010

Well, be warned this is not like any other Tuberose you’ve ever smelt before. Especially not the 2 existing Artisan creations Tubereuse which is all buttery, and Chasse Aux Papillons, milder and spicy. So, if you’ve been put off Tuberose by the ‘hothouse Flower’ reputation as experienced in Puigets’ Fracas and FM’s Carnal Flower, or the almost medicinal Tubereuse Criminelle by SL, then it’s worth giving this one a try !

Nuit de Tubereuse is the latest (May 2010) in a line of fragraces created by Betrand Duchaufour for Artisan and carries his signature earthiness. This seems to use all of the Tuberose including the root ! and does begin to smell very vegetal after 4 hours or so. This isn’t a problem for me as I love the underlying dirtier notes in perfumery, especially as rendered by BD. Bloggers keep mentiong Mango and it is indeed one of the notes, however I don’t get this at all. When first applied liberally I fairly sparkled with Pink Pepper along with many unidentifiable notes. This is pretty much what I would’ve expected Mandrgore Poupre to smell like. Another blogger has mentioned a connection between AG/CD’s MP and Les Epices de Passion from Artisan. Me, I’d say it fits very well with the travel series, as it also has an undertone of earth, but not nearly so much as Duchaufours creations.

I find Nuit de Tubereuse rather hard to pin down and will return to this after a few days of wear ! anyway, at least my significant other is still prepared to hug me !!!!

PL&P

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane Review

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Yes, you did read that right – Nuit de Cellophane. As in a glamourous transparent wrapping for a fragrant bouquet. Or as some blogs would have it  ‘a nod to bondage’.

When I first smelt this I thought it resembled Datura Noir.  However, on comparison NdC is much lighter/transparent, but they are both hothouse florals. NdC – think gourmet fruit cocktail in a light juice.  Everything about this is light/trasparent. This beautiful water/fruit/floral accord  is obscured/spoiled by a ‘dirty’ note that just doesn’t seem to fit at all.

I wore this for a few hours but we just didn’t get along sadly. I begin to wonder if SL’s search for minimalism means that he’s just not creating beautiful fragrances these days. The export line all seem to be toned down versions of the original Export Line. However, this one just doesn’t fit at all.

………….and after a few days I found out what it really reminds me of, CK’s Contradiction (that’s where I first smelt the ‘dirty’ note), but with a lot more mystery,panache and elegance.

Here’s the official line:

"Remember those wonderful old movies when the heroine answers a ring at
the door to find a delivery of a sumptuous bouquet of flowers or a spray
of orchids enveloped in cellophane?. She tears off the wrappings and
inhales their wonderful warm, damp scent: here is Serge's latest
fragrance, encapsulating the moment with a sinuous creation of osmanthus,
peach, iris, jasmine and violets all ready to grace a romantic evening for
two".

Worth trying tho’ – you may love it ! I give it a meagre 5/10 !

PL&P

Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute Review

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

Oh Heart of Darkness, this is what I thought when I tried this.  It is much darker than Noir de Noir, which is uplifted by its floralcy.  Amber Absolute is the epitome of Catholic Mass fragrances.  I LOVE incense and I found this breathtaking. Darker even than CdG’s Avignon, which sparkles in comparison with Amber Absolute. Much drier than Etro’s Messe de Minuit.

As to amber itself, I’m not that fussed generally although I love Orientals. In this composition it is the one note that lightens the intensity of the Incense.  This one I’m keeping !!!

Any incense lovers out there really should try a sample of this magnificent gothic fragrance.

Again Mr Ford 10/10 !

PL&P !

Tom Ford Private Blend ‘Purple Patchouli’

Sunday, January 11th, 2009

Well I’ve been wearing this chameleonesque beasty since Friday afternoon and I’m still not sure what I think of it !

On application there is an immediate burst of citrus quickly followed by the distict aroma of violets. This changes within a few minutes to a very deep and slightly dissonant deep Noir leather note.  This doesn’t linger on me and changes softly over the course of the next few hours into a ylang/honey accord, which almost reminds me of ‘Shocking’. I get none of the Amber or Vetivert that are supposedly present !

However this is a very evasive scent and I think, as always that individual body chemistry brings out different notes.  The most amazing thing about it is the fact that I haven’t once picked up any kind of Patchouli note – most strange. Beautiful to wear, as it drifts and morphes in and out.

I was asking the sales assistant to describe it for me and he said that this was a far more ‘traditional’ interpretation of Patchouli  ! Sadly he was VERY wrong, and if you really want to smell the Patchouli, go for the regular White Patchouli. Or for real 70’s Patchouli then L’Artisan’s Patchouli Patch would be my recommendation.

Purple Patchouli is a very refined, intriguing and complex scent and I’m already planning my next Private Blend purchase !

Footnote: Having worn this for several days now I’ve noticed that it reminds me of Serge Lutens Bois Violette ! On me it’s VERY definitely soft, powdery and  VERY, VERY violetey !!!! If it hadn’t come direct from a reputable London department store I might have been tempted to believe that this was Violet Noir ! Perhaps when I buy that one I will get some Patchouli !!!!!

This is a MUST for any violet fan.

PL&P !

Etat Libre d’Orange

Monday, October 6th, 2008

Well I’m so intrigued by the names of these fragrances, so I’m waiting for the following samples: Putain des Palaces (Hotel Slut !), Eloge du Traitre (What a traitor),Anti-Hero and Rien (Nothing !). Watch this space…………I shall review them as soon as I’ve received them. Not sure what I’ve let myself in for here.

PL&P !